lizolas: me climbing a thin crack with small footholds to the side (Default)

Bishop & Yosemite Valley

October 11-14, 2019

Climb Grade Pitches Type
Mt Humphreys - East Arete (Strava) ”5.4” 1 mile Solo
Super Slide 5.9 5 Trad

I’d planned to do Mt Humphreys as part of my preparation for Saber Ridge. A flat tire on my way over to Bishop put a hold on that. I ended up not making time to do the route before our Saber deadline. My idea was to take a short rope for the downclimbs, but first to try and solo them. Scrambling in the Cathedral Range the previous summer, my partner had remarked that something we downclimbed was about 5.6, to which I replied that that was impossible, as I barely even up-climbed 5.7! During that conversation, I realized that my idea of my climbing limit is what I feel I could comfortably reverse, on account of I do a lot of getting lost on long, wandering routes. Frequently on that kind of scrambling outing, I come to a short downclimb that occasionally has death-fall potential (looking at you, Matthes) and initially think there’s no way I can safely do it. After Ben patiently points out the footholds to me, I can generally do it just fine. With two short (10-foot) 5.6 or 5.7 downclimbs on blocky granite, this seemed like a good opportunity to see if I could talk myself into figuring out the beta for myself for once.

Trail through scrub in foreground with mountains in background
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lizolas: me climbing a thin crack with small footholds to the side (Default)

South Lake Tahoe – June 30-July 1, 2018

How did we make that a cluster? Let me count the ways….

My original idea was to stay home for the weekend. Then it was to make a 5-day weekend with a Monday off, a vacation day, and the 4th of July and go to the Eastern Sierra. Finally I settled on joining Joshua and his partner at Tahoe. After originally planning to be alone Saturday, Joshua told me I was welcome to join them for Surrealistic Pillar and Corrugation Corner. I thought this would be a perfect opportunity to follow fun things as well as assess how much I wanted to lead Corrugation. There’s a general theme in my trip reports of “I thought wrong,” but this trip was a whole new level of thinking wrong. I showed up in the parking lot to find that Mike was a guy much older than I expected. I figured if he was training to do Conness, I was about to get thoroughly shown up by an old dude. We racked up and walked to the trailhead, at which point we realized we needed a second nut tool for the party. Eventually we started up the trail.

Panoramic view of the forested hills across from our climb on Surrealistic Pillar
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lizolas: me climbing a thin crack with small footholds to the side (Default)

Tuolumne June 16-17, 2018

After finding out that Ben had never been to Tuolumne because he moved to the Bay Area after 120 closed last fall, I suggested a trip there; he agreed and proposed a trip to do Echo Peaks, then created a route with a loop traverse of several things in the Cathedral Range. I deemed this acceptable as long as we got to make a detour to Elizabeth Lake – I’ve been meaning to get there for 2 years now and hadn’t made it yet. We left Sunnyvale at 8, got stuck in traffic anyway, and made it to Hardin Flat Road at 12:30. We woke up to the 5:30 alarm the next morning and drove the rest of the way to the Cathedral Lakes Trailhead where we had breakfast and got our gear organized. We’d previously discussed taking ropes and harnesses along for the more technical Echo Peaks, but decided to leave that behind and just scramble whatever we felt comfortable with. I was expecting a lot of me telling him to go on ahead because he was way more comfortable than I was, but there was only one thing during the whole day that I couldn’t do the same way he did.

Snowy mountain with a grassy meadow in foreground
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