lizolas: me climbing a thin crack with small footholds to the side (Default)

Shasta “Guiding”

Summer 2019

Rocky summit of Shasta

In the interest of recording all my outdoor activities so I can remember them later, this is my summer summary of Shasta:

May 25-17 - Shadowed Scott & Alex w/ 6 clients (storm, turned around)
June 15-16 - Shadowed Adrian w/ 4 clients (turned around with 1 client)
June 29-30 - Shadowed Caleb w/ 3 clients (summitted, short-roped 1 client)
July 20-21 - Shadowed Caleb w/ 4 clients (turned around with 2 clients)
July 26 - Solo dayhike Shasta via Avalanche Gulch (summitted)
July 27-29 - Adventure Treks trip w/ 6 kids and 2 counselors (summitted with 4 people from various groups)
July 30-31 - JH Ranch trip w/ 6 kids and 1 counselor (summitted with the entire group)

Mt Shasta from the parking lot with green trees in foreground
lizolas: me climbing a thin crack with small footholds to the side (Default)

Mt Shasta, June 23-24, 2018

Several months ago, I signed up for an F5 event to climb Mt Shasta via Casaval Ridge. I had another Shasta trip planned via Avalanche Gulch in May and figured I’d do it by the easy route first, then a harder (or at least slightly more technical) route a month later. As it turned out, in May we had terrible weather and didn’t get anywhere near the summit. The Casaval Ridge plan changed to Avalanche Gulch after a couple of Corneliu’s friends told him they did the ridge earlier in the week and found that the catwalk was melted out and there was a section with a steep ice traverse. Corneliu (and probably Aaron and Ian) wouldn’t have found this insurmountable. The other 5 of us without as much technical experience were not up to that, nor did we have the gear for it. I was expecting to be the group member with the least amount of experience, but several of the people who RSVP’d “going” didn’t end up going and a couple others came along who had no prior mountaineering experience, putting me solidly in the middle of the pack.

Sunrise panorama from above Red Banks with Thumb Rock in the foreground
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lizolas: me climbing a thin crack with small footholds to the side (Default)

Mt Shasta via Avalanche Gulch attempted Sunday, May 27, 2018

In which I forget to take any pictures and leave my phone in my pocket the whole time.

I’m now 0 for 2 on Shasta summit attempts, and 0 for 5 on summit attempts with other people rather than alone. I think there are some things to learn from this. Not the least of which might be to consider that “if you’re summitting every time, you’re making bad decisions.” In actuality I think my A Long Day summits thus far were all on completely nontechnical stuff that posed very little risk since I had the correct clothing, food/water, and gear with me, but as I move into more technical activities alone it’s something to keep in mind.

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January 2020

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